Rolex Prince Chronometer "Doctors Watch" ref.1862 NOS from 1929

This beautiful watch will turn 100 years old in just a few more years. The two-tone silver mirror-finish "Doctor's" dial, executed in Art Deco styling, is exceptionally beautiful and remarkably well preserved. The greatest highlight of this piece is the condition of its original fixed leather strap with the original buckle. It appears the watch may have been tried on only a couple of times over the course of a century. The movement screws have never been fitted with a screwdriver.

On the caseback, we can see a Poinçon de Maître Geneva Key, which indicates that the case was produced in Geneva. Since 1934, it was mandatory for all Geneva-based case makers to use a maker's hallmark. Some manufacturers, however, began using them well over a decade earlier. The number inside the key leads directly to the maker of the gold watch case. In this case, the number "10" inside the Geneva Key corresponds to Meylan, also known as UFSB. The association of the seven-pointed crown and the letters SAR is found only with Key 10 and Meylan's RM parachute hallmark, suggesting that this trademark may also have been registered by Meylan, although no record of such a registration has been found.

Meylan History

The company Robert Meylan, a Geneva-based watch case manufacturer, was first registered on 5 July 1928. The registration details state that Robert Meylan specifically manufactured wristwatch cases (boîtes de montres-bracelets). The company's address was 4 Rue Winkelried, Geneva. Robert Meylan registered the trademark of a parachute carrying the initials "RM" on 29 June 1934.

Burglary at Rolex

Robert Meylan was one of Geneva's foremost watch case manufacturers and a major supplier to Rolex during the 1930s. His name became permanently associated with one of the most unusual episodes in the company's early history: the 1938 burglary of Rolex's Geneva workshops, during which solid gold and platinum watch cases worth approximately 100,000 Swiss francs were stolen. Meylan later confessed to participating in the theft alongside French criminal Yves Le Gallou, admitting that he had melted down most of the stolen cases in his own factory to disguise their origin. Acting on his testimony, Swiss authorities recovered nearly 15 kilograms of buried gold and platinum watch cases and components in the Jura Mountains. The company Robert Meylan, then located at 78 Rue de Lausanne, Geneva, ceased operations and called in creditors in September 1939.

Rolesor Trademark

The term Rolesor is a registered trademark (originally filed in 1933). It designates the combination of gold and steel on a Rolex watch.

Quoted by Rolex®- "Rolesor has featured on Rolex models since the early 1930s, and was trademarked as a name in 1933."

This suggests that Rolex experimented with the term before the 1933 trademark filing, although there is currently no published evidence to support this.

We had the watch tested, and the alloy used for the case is 304L stainless steel, consisting primarily of 74.6% iron, 12.8% chromium, and 11.5% nickel, with solid gold lugs and crown.

25 Records Universels

The earliest evidence we have seen is an advertisement dated 1 December 1928. Prior to this, Rolex advertised 24, 23, and 22 Records Universels. This serves as a valuable dating tool for determining when a Rolex watch from this period was manufactured, rather than relying solely on the serial number.

• Record 20 corresponds to the 1927 Kew Class A Certificate result.
• Record 21 predates September 1928, although its exact identity remains unknown.
• Records 22–24 were announced together in September 1928.
• Record 25 was being claimed by December 1928.
• Record 26 predates December 1931.

The Aegler Movement History

These rectangular chronometer movements were manufactured by Aegler, Rolex's principal movement partner at the time this watch was produced. In November 1912, the registered name of the Aegler company was changed, as shown in the published announcement, to "Les Fils de Jean Aegler, Fabrique de Montres Rebberg, Final & Rolex". In 1913, Aegler registered Rolex as a trademark for the manufacture of watches and watch parts. From this point onward, the histories of Wilsdorf & Davis, Aegler, and Rolex become virtually impossible to separate using publicly available information. It is nevertheless clear that Aegler and Rolex remained separate companies, and that Aegler continued supplying watches to companies other than Rolex throughout the 1930s. Over time, however, their relationship became increasingly close, with several changes to the companies' legal names and corporate structures.

In September 1936, the company adopted the corporate name "Manufacture des Montres Rolex, Aegler Société Anonyme" and thereafter produced watches exclusively for Rolex, operating as a partner company within the Rolex organization until 31 December 2004. The Borer family eventually decided to sell the Aegler company, and it was acquired by Rolex.

The Movement

We do not know the exact caliber fitted to this watch, but it unquestionably represents one of the highest-quality movements produced during its era. "Ultra Prima" was Aegler's highest movement grade, as indicated on the lower wheel train. These movements were also produced in Prima and Extra Prima grades, featuring fewer jewels and lacking the chronometer designation.

• 18 jewels
• Chronometer certified
• Timed to six positions
• Ultra Prima designation
• Breguet overcoil balance spring
• Gold train jewels
• Large screwed balance
• Finger bridge over the fourth wheel
• Separate click spring
• Exceptionally refined bridge finishing

Brand: Rolex
Model: Prince Chronometer
Year of Manufacture: 1929
Serial Number: 10,461
Material: 18k Gold and 304 Stainless Steel
Dimensions: 20mm × 39mm
Reference Number: 1862
Movement: Hand-wound
Strap Size: 18mm
Bracelet: Original Rolex NOS strap with original buckle
Box/Papers: N/A

Comments: The strap is fixed; this watch does not use spring bars, and the buckle is also fixed. The original strap remains in unworn condition. The watch shows only minor storage marks and is otherwise unworn. Watch keeping accurate time, never serviced.